The climbing is near the lower falls. walk across the giant limestone slab staying left of the falls,
and access the cliff band via the obvious bent oak tree.
the following beta is taken from
Whole Earth Provision's Public Climbing Beta Folder.
MCKINNEY BOULDERING GUIDE
--all walls and problems are described left to right
--keep in mind, grades are likely wrong and inconsistent
--SD = sit down start; LS = low start; SU = stand up start;
-- painfully obvious feature at the far left end of the band.
- wayne's mantle (SU) - V3
left end of roof. large shelf leads to slopey highball.
- backseat driver (SU) - V
start in only jugs in middle of roof. straight up.
- tilted earth (SD) - V9
start near the right end of the roof on sloper shelf, and move out of the roof into the flake.
-- short, edgy wall to the right of the roof and left of the access tree
- left scrunchy problem (SD) - V??
start just right of the roof on a flake like cookie edge. move up and left.
- alterna-chick (SD) - V4
start on large flat ledge above undercut feet. move up through small edges
- low rider (SD) - V3
start on low small possitive edge and inconspicuous mono; undercut feet
- dirt bag (SD) - V2
start on the lone flat one pad edge.
- saturn III (SD) - V6
- naval power (SD) - V7 !
start on dueling slanting jugs. head up and slightly right.
- fuck nut (SD) - V2
start on slopey, slanting jug and small edge.
- super nugget (SD) - V4
start on obvious slopey rail, move up through sidepulls. typically wet after rain
- dry goods (SD) - V4
start on pockets just left of tree. stay left of large flake.
- dryer goods (SD) - V0
same as dry goods using flake.
-- begins right of access tree and ends at the overhung arete
- left most injury (SD) - V0
begin on slanting edge just right of thick flake. move up and slightly left through good pockets
- clingon (SD) - V3
begin just right of problem 1 on pockets. move up and slightly left through finger sprag
- the pint curl (SD) - V3
start on positive edges. move up through undercling mono.
- right of pint curl (SD) - V4
begin on jugs move up through choice of pockets
- broken feet (SD) - V4
start on sloper jug/rail and continue up through large mono (or two finger for those with skinny fingers)
- power slide stand (SU) - V5
start on mono and sloper jug. move up through good edge just under the lip
- powerslide (SD) - V7
direct sit start to above. classic.
- perineum blowout dyno (SU) - ?
begin on dueling shallow monos lunge for lip
- perineum blowout (SD) - ?
sit down to above.
- power merchant (SU) - V7
start on prominent slot-jug and move up through textured slope just left of the arete
- power slut (LS) - V8
add a big move to powermerchant by starting on the slopey ledge and good pocket
- powerslut prow linkup (LS) - V7
start on power slut ... pretty self explanitory.
-- begins right of the prominent overhung arete; chossy slab at base.
- the prow - power merchant linkup (SD) - V8
start on the prow, move into the power merchant ... big moves.
- the prow (ed) (LS) - V4
can't stop the fun man. move off the left end of the rail system up left through jug on right side of the arete. (add a sit down and left on starting feet - V4+)
- unnamed warm up thing (SU) - V2
from rail system move up through slopey jug and small edges.
- another one worth doing (SU) - V2
start below where horizontal seem bulges out and gets very juggy, up through slopey 2 1/2 finger pocket and good two, juggy top out.
- flake lunge (SD) - V1
sit just right of another one worth doing below obvious jug flake go straight up.
- cedar elm top out (SU) - V3
start just left of small cedar elm straight up through small two and over cedar elm branch to top out. traversing left is for pussies.
- the mono pop (SU) - V2
just right of tree begin on slopey edges and move through mono sidepull.
- adam's jump (SU) - V4
move through shallow pockets and slopey edge.
-- large overhangs beginning right of the dueling flakes
- local plates (SD) - V4
start in rail system above the poorly located boulder. move up through dueling sharp pockets.
- left el camino (LS) - V6
three feet right of local plates start in small pocket system then direct up through small holds to slopey jug then up and over.
- right el camino (LS) - V7
start evil eyes finish left el camino
- evil eye (LS) - V5
perhaps the McKinney classic. start right of the tree in pocket band. move up and right through obvious 2 finger sprag undercling. uber classic.
- evil eyes direct (SU) -
start directly under the first pocket pocket on evil eyes, finish evil eyes.
- junkie queers (LS) - V8
start off slopey jug in horizontal seem and mono; move up and through crimp and slope into pockets
- junkie queers direct (SD) - V8
get your money's worth by starting in the broken ledge below the mono
- seige Tactics (SD) - V6
start on the 2 finger pinch left hand and move up and right through slopes
- blown clutch (SD) - V2
SD start to double clutchin up right dyno to the large dihedral jugs in between seige tactics and the top out for double clutchin. easy variation. but fun dyno.
- double clutchin' (SD) - V4
sit just right of chossy dihedral and tree on sharp pock move up through sloping slots and pockets. top out is a learning experience...
- trapeze freak (LS) - V8
begin on obvious low sidepull and mono; iron cross right through sloper and up to lunge
- trapezious freak (SD) - V9?
add a couple of moves by starting to the left on the large jug and two finger
- jungle geek (SD) - V8
- cirque du soleil (SD) - V9
start under roof and move up through sprag, mono and two finger
-- wall with long horizontal crack right of the large overhang
- lunge wall traverse (SD) - V3
sit at the right most point on the horizontal seem traverse left follow the seem up and out the dihedral. pumpy.
- uhn ss uhn ss uhn ss (SD) - V2
sit at right of horizontal crack (same as traverse) up through bad two or bad crimps to point
- STAY (SD) - V3
start on uhn ss start holds and fire up right to slopey jug. difficult variation out right and static too top. move bush behind tree for unhindered falls.
-- starts at the slanting flake.
- fister (SD) - V4
sit left of the giant sharp flake just right of the stump on juggy seem. go up and over shield.
- lubrication for a fisting (SD) - V0
sit just right of "fister" on the same seem up through big friendly pocket.
- the super fister (SD) - V5
sit about four feet right of lubrication for a fisting on the same juggy seam. follow the seam up and left and exit fister.
- big sharp flake (LS) - V0
traverse up and left on big sharp flake to chossy mantle. rock is suspect. be careful.
- the action is go (SD) - V5
start at base of flake; move up and right through funky, small pocket and high edges
- born to drag (SU) - V5
just left of large cypress tree stand from pocket and side pull lunge to lip.
- drag queen (SD) - V6
sit born to drag on small crimps.
- primordial soup (SD) - V6
pocketed face just left of arete. (3 in the pink one in the stink)
- blur (SD) - V8
sit on broken choss up choss covered arete.
- sharma problem (SD) - V8
start blur go right (FA clayton reagan)
- kentucky dream (SU) - V4
climb up the slopes on the face just right of the arete
- kentucky cream (SD) - V6
start on the round, sharp pocket and mono... poor feet
-- steep pocketed wall right of kentucky dream. behind the boulder.
- sea hag (LS) - V4
move up from slot and posket. slab wall of left corner is off (with slab - V0)
- kookie kabuki (?) - V4
??? no description
- wet wall traverse (SD) - V7
traverse right to left finish on sea hag.
mckinney proper boulder
-- the big boulder at the right most part of the mckinney proper band.
- wolf spider (SD) - V2
left of arete in hallway across from kentucky dream. contrived sit start in dueling 3 finger pockets about two feet off of the ground up through bad slopers. quality stone.
- the arete chicken exit (SD) - V1
sit under arete exit up and left on slab.
- the arete (SD) - V3
climb the overhung slopey arete.
- whiplash dyno (SD) - J9
4 feet left of how low sit on 2 1/2 finger pocket and slopey crimp out 6 feet to jug on lip and over.
- how low can you go (SD) - V6
begin towards the right side of the overhang beneath the low point of the lip. start off of good mono undercling
- mckinney boulder traverse (SD) - V?
sit on right side of boulder traverse left across lip exit left of arete. worthy.