The following beta was given to me by James Harrison...
Roger's Park is Lake Belton's secluded bouldering garden. The bulgey grey cliff band winds around the lake hidden by trees.
Quiver up its slopey highball topouts. Pure pocket climbing on steep grey walls best describes this area. Boulder problems of all
grades are found on the walls of Roger's Park, many are V0 to V4. During 1998 bouldering at roger's exploded as it came under the
eye of Austin's powerfull bouldering scene. Today many hard new problems can be found here. The potential is good for new
even harder problems. Because of a lack of direct sunlight, the walls here are sometimes wet and spoogy, definately best
during dry conditions. Never the less, Roger's Park is excellent.
History: The first climber found these well hidden walls by getting drunk and stumbling off of the top. Joey Phillips
tirelessly laid the stone trail that traces the cliff band.
Boulder problems and walls are described left to right. As you will encounter them walking along the
-- the first bouldering walls you reach, marked by seamy cracks and a drwarf sized cave. The Prominant feature of this wall is a wide right arching dihedral. The wall itself is about 12 foot tall.
- General Malaise - V4
start on crumbly jug to the left of the crack, up through slopers to slabular top out.
- Serpentine Crack - V1
around the bulge from the cave; hard finish.
- Serpentine Traverse (SD) - V3
Starting in the dihedral, traverse left along the seam, finish serpentine crack.
- serpentine direct (SD) - V3
sit at the travers but exit direct up blunt arete. good fun.
- Jaws (SU) - V1
Originates in right arching crack. pockets and thin seam angle left out roof. Stellar. 3 stars * * *!!
- wadder direct. (SU) - V3
just to the right of jaws and left of the finger crack. start on slab and head straight up and topout over the bulge. tight space topout. the reach is extremely arm length dependant. head slight right for shorter arms.
- Finger Crack (SU) - V0
ascend crack in dihedral right of something.
- Bozo - V2
Around the corner from finger crack. starts in good pocket just left of the chin.
- The Chin - V0
less than vertical dihedral to small roof. also marked by broken orange flakes.
- Cool Breeze - V1
20 foot right of the chin. slab below cedar tree with sparse pockets.
-- the first large wall, around 25 feet tall. marked by a huge flake that splits the left side of the wall. the right side is slightly overhanging with grey streaks.
- Phillips 1 - V1
just right of test the flake.
- Pocket Jockey - V0
Starts on protusion by leaning tree.
- bake flake (SD) - V0
Start near the center of the flake, top out where the capstone is cracked.
- Test the Flake (SD) - V2
Low Start then up large huecos in center of wall finishing on right side of the flake.
- Nettle - V2
20 foot right of test the flake. starts on thin pockets, tops out on right side large detached block.
- Phillips 2 - V2
Light grey streak 10 foot right of nettle.
- Put your shoes on - V1
subtle streak 5 foot right of Phillips 2. Located just before the wall becomes drastically shorter.
-- The next large overhang, the right side is a steep, black, nearly featureless cave.
- needs a name 1 (SU) - V2
Start where the fallen block is nearest the wall.
- needs a name 2 (SU) - V0
start on 2 finger pocket just right of block and cedar tree.
- scales (SD) - V6
start on spook eyes, very thin pocket out bulge.
- Desert Storm Trainer (SD) - V3
starts on small turkey leg shaped hueco under roof. pull roof and finish abase. This problem is V5 if begun with a low traverse from starting hold of abase.
- Abase (SD) - V3
start under roof on brown hole. slopey huecos out roof then finish left.
- Abash (SD) - V2
Well Traveled problem. same start as abase then straight up.
- Devine Hee Haw (SD) - V7
Start Abase and Abash, climb right into thin bulge. pull into deep mono at the lip.
- Reflection Eternal (SD) - V9
starts behind large block, pull to wormy seam and finishes left around corner.
-- A long wall streaked with pockets, billiards wall is reminiscent of the gymnasium wall at hueco tanks. beware the topouts on this wall, they are high and tenuous. Billiards wall is located just after the black cave past the abase wall.
- Tribal Sound (SU) - v10
Starting on shallow two finger pockets, this line throws to the thin edge and then up left to the obvious jug.
It needs a sit start.
- Starburst (SD) - v9
Start sitting under horizontal roof below Senor Fuerte. Pull 2 core-intense moves to gain the Fuerte crux.
- Se (SD) - V6!
sit down start under the blunt arete on the right side of the big roofs, cut left on the line of pockets.
- Vile Betrayer (SD) - V2
same start as fuerte. blind dyno around corner to the right.
- Impact Addict (SU) - V4+
Pull straight out through large shallow hueco, and up the highest part of the wall. also the finish of the billiards wall traverse.
- Sack UP. (SU) - v4
Start on obvious pockets, pull up to obvious pockets and THROW BIG to the sloper at 17 feet. Dyno-rrific.
- Four Pigs (SD) - V3
15 foot right of the large shallow hueco in the center of the wall. finishes on horizontal crack.
- Billiards Wall Traverse - V5!
start low and right by tree, the same start as glory putri, traverse left on pockets, finishing impact addict.
- Glory Putri (SD) - V2
starts behind tree. finishes slightly left on horizontal crack.
- Hump Problem - V3
dyno up to the obvious hump, then pull over.
- Foxy Doxy - V3
the black dihedral.
- The 5th Commandment (Heaven or Las Vegas) (SD) - V5
Sit start foxy doxy, traverse right into orange stained hueco. finish muffin man.
- High Traverse - V?
sit down start below beak. traverse left along high line of pockets finishing four pigs.
- Larapase Man (SD) - V2
sit down start right of Foxy Doxy.
- BDI'S (SD) - v8
Sart matched in hueco go through left two finger and in to undercling pocket
- Muffin Man (Jumping) - V5
Start in front of large boulder. Jump start to slopy edges and up thin face
- ... the following problems are on the right side of the wall. -
- Jungle Fever (SD) - V7
10 foot right of large block which sits by wall. starts matched in round hole with two finger pocket, the next hold is also a two finger. finishes on the good holds on the face.
- Pinch Problem (SD) - V4
starts in oval shaped hueco, right hand to pinch. finish slightly left.
- Happy Trail (SD) - V8
start in two finger pocket left of the scream. top out left of the block.
- The Scream (SD) - V2
climb up through the two gold streaked huecos. Bad Landing.
- General Hospital - V3
pockets five foot right of the scream.
- needs a name 3 - V1
15 foot right of general hospital. just left of small tree.
- needs a name 4 - V1
10 foot right of needs a name 3. just right of small tree.
- needs a name 5 - V1
15 foot right of needs a name 4. behind small tree.
-- 20 foot long wall past billiards wall. There are several V0's on this one.
- if you have names and beta for these climbs let me know. -
-- the next small overhang past billiards wall.
- Suicide Run (SU) - V2
fifteen foot buttress which stands over the trail. very rocky landing.
- needs a name 6 - V0
finger crack in dihedral just right of suicide run.
- Aunt Jamima (SU) - V0
slopey slab between two V0 diherdrals with finger cracks.
- suicide traverse - V3
traverse seam left to right, or visa versa.
- needs a name 7 - V0
grey dihedral to the left of big slopey.
- Big Slopey (SD) - V0
just left of beached whale. move up big sloping ledges.
- Beached Whale (SU) - V2
start in round pocket at arm length.
-- unimposing wall reached after passing several smaller walls beyond the suicide zone.
- Uno - V0
first grey streak.
- Dos - V0
second grey streak.
- Tres - V0
-- Bulgy, slightly overhanging wall. the top of the wall slabs out.
- Maui Wowey - V0
starts in alcove in left side of the wall.
- T seam - V0
Starts in T shaped seam. sidepull near the top.
- Time release THC - V0
just left of large tree growing from the base of the wall.
- Too High - V2
deep huecos just behind tree. cruxy slab
- Baking brownies - V1
5 feet right of too high.
- Sunny Side up - V0
- ant farm - V1
left hand light grey water mark, slightly less than vertical.
- Zero not Hero - V2
right hand water mark.
The Pit a.k.a. the trashcan wall
-- big grey sweeping overhangs, above the back of the cove. the first major roof after billiards wall, the pit marks the half way point of the bouldering at roger's park. several awe inspiring lines are found here.
- Choppy Seas (SD) - V3
left side of the wall. start on orange crack and traverse left on sharp protruding holds around the corner and off the wall.
- King Krosly (Standing) - V4++
Start standing with right had edge and go left through the large hueco in the roof.
- cant stop the wang (SU) - V10
start in horizontal slots and go to faint two finger at the lip/
- Lopsang Delimma (SD) - V6
start on reach problem. traverse left and huck roof at long thin pocket.
- Reach Problem (SD) - V4
from big undercling, reach out blank roof to horizontal crack.
- Tao (SU) - V7
subtle prow with gland hueco with long green stain. start with left hand in mono stack, right on bad sidepull.
- Zen (SD) - V5
obvious line which splits the center of the wall. start low in the hueco, long moves past diagnostic crack and pockets. high top out left.
- Catlin (SD) - V6
harder and bolder right hand version of zen.
- Acoustic Elvis .. moment of clarity (SD) - V7?
15 foot right of zen. start on good slot, three bad holds gain the hueco. super high top out.
- partial levitation (SD) - V7
Start in pockets and go right hand to obvious crimp and up.
- Oscar The Grouch (SU?) - ??
start in bad crimpy gastoning block. long move out roof and up.
- cajun queen. (SU) - ?
arete to the left of skirt dihedral.
- skirt dihedral (SU) - V3
on the skirt topped by a roof and short head wall. move up skirt into small dihedral feature. painful pockets.
Little New Wall
-- A nice wall with patches of ferns, reminiscent of the greenbelt. Marked by many diagonal blocky features. there are many eliminate problems here as well. too many to list in this guide.
- Slam Dunk (SU) - V3
about 25 feet left of tree that supports boulder on lichen green scoop. move up through triangular fin.
- Stupid Fun (SD) - V1
15 foot left of tree, start on broken thread through with good feet up through baguette shaped hueco to sloping top out.
- Fire in the Belly (Brush Stroke) (SD) - V5
10 foot left of tree that supports capstone. start on crimp and sharp mono up and left through undercling pinch.
- Bitch Slap (SD) - V4
just left of tree start in orange jug. straight up.
- Little New Wall Traverse (SD) - V4
start on slots five foot right of tree which supports capstone. traverse entire wall finishing on the far right side.
- Gratis (SD) - V2
start in two slots five foot right of tree which supports the capstone. right and up to block, then finish un poco.
- Un Poco (SD) - V3
15 foot right of tree which supports capstone. up to sloper, left and match on block.
- Que Lindo (SD) - V1!
pretty problem near the center of the wall. light grey stair step roof. ends with match, or if you are slightly more daring a top out.
- El Jardín - V2
start on orange rock left of ferns (if they haven't been rippied out). at the top there is a pocket seam in black rock.
- Sunday Stroll (SD) - V3
start on undercling just right of orange rock. reach right hand out to pocket, then straight up on slopers.
- Durans (SD) - V2
same start as sunday stroll, finish up and right on slots.
- Mono Bruiser (SD) - V3
as pictured in climbing magazine... right hand to mono left and up.
- Con Cuidado - V1
20 feet right of El Jardin, starts in "window." move up and left past two layback cracks. ends with match on cracked block.
- Nada - V0
Same Start straight up big features.
Dead Dogs Wall
-- Pretty grey bulges, just past little new wall. the first section of the wall is between two large trees.
- Mah Habone - V1
Directly behind first tree, a hackberry.
- Road Napper - V1
- Distemper - V0
Just left of crack
- Chicken Chaser (SD) - V1
just right of crack
- Shoots and Ladders (SD) - V2
This pretty problem starts on chicken chaser, then traverses right out of the deep slot and pulls the bulge. this one is left of the oak.
- Wants and Needs - V5
very shallow pockets just right of the oak.
- Goods and Services (SD) - V4
stellar pockets 10 foot right of the oak.
- Dug Out (SD) - V7
start in the back of the three lobed roof. pull out on good pockets, then a hard move to gain a good match below the top.
- Hobb Nobbler (SD) - V7
starts in back of cave matched in hueco. follow pockets out the roof
- Unholdable Pinch (SD) - ?
Start under roof in deep slot and sharp round hueco, finish straight up.
- El Vergador (Standing) - V10
start standing, left hand on slopey hueco, right on crimp. Charge to small crimp in face and up.
- Event Horizon (SD) - V7
start i good pocket and throw to crimp at the horizon, left hand. Finish right on third nipple.
- Third Nipple (SD) - V7
Pull blank roof into large scoop which has blue streaks on it's sides.
-- slightly less than verticle black wall. 15 foot tall
- Dusty Roads - V1
thin pockets on left side of black slab.
- Muckle Up - not rated
in the center of the wall, double dyno off of two monos.
- Victoria's Secret - V1!
can you find the secret? light grey streak on right side of wall.
-- short wall between black slabs and the buttress
- east land 1332 (SD) - V1
start left of big bowl shaped hueco on large, low pocket traverse right into hueco, and then straight up.
- King of Swing (SD) - V6
sit down on the right side of a large hueco on two matching holds that are flat and down sloping, but good. left through hueco to sloping dish.
Lost and alone Buttress
-- 25 foot predominately white wall by large cedar tree. The wall stands directly over the trail.
- Lost and Alone - V4!
high ball problem which stands over the trail. starts on only good hold, sparse pockets lead up and right, finish with hueco that is hidden from view. this clean face is just slightly overhung.
-- nicely pocketed grey slabs. the beginning of this wall is marked by a large capped roof and many orange flakes.
- Couch Surfing - V1!
where the capped roof ends, start on diagonal hold. then up through U shaped notch in roof.
- Vagabond - V0
just left of clean grey streak, 10 foot right of pink streak, finishes with thick flake. below the juniper tree on top of the cliff.
- Homeless Address - V2
15 feet right of vagabond, bulgy grey slab finishing at the cedar tree.
-- 30 foot tall, less than vertical wall marked by prominant, sickle seam in the center of the wall. routes here are very high, so there are given ratings for top rope. bring long slings to set anchors, or a big set of testicles.
- Slideways - 5.10d
10 feet left of slidewinder, light grey pockets and small tree. top rope off of smaller grey trees.
- Slidewinder - 5.11c
up the sickle feature, then tricky traverse right and up. top rope off of the cedar tree.
- needs a name 8 - 5.11a
10 feet right of slidewinder. steep pockets on black rock, exit right onto slab. toprope off of trees to the right.
Hogs Back Caves
-- past a jumble of boulders three teared bulges are found. the first is the largest, the second is marked by a huge sloper.
- needs a name 9 - V?
climb out large holds left center of first cave.
- needs a name 10 - V2
reach or jump to slot, left to pocket. top out left or right.
- K7 (SD) - V4!
near the right side of roof. start in deep black-stained slot. pull out to horizontal seam, then up through a pocket, to a point.
- needs a name 11 (SD) - V0
start under roof just left of huge thread though, on right side of first cave. climb up just on left side of the two big holes.
- needs a name 12 (SD) - V4
start 6 feet right of large holes. mass of pockets.
- Jacksons V5 (SD) - V5
second grey streak with many pockets.
- ...these climbs are in the second cave -
- The Maid (SD) - V2
at beginning of second cave, up to lie back.
- Mexican Affairs (SD) - V3!
in the second cave. start on red varnished hueco and low pocket. right to pocket seam, and left and up following large features.
- Slopes (SD) - V3
start mexican affairs, right then mantle prominant sloper.
- ...these final problems are beyond the second cave. -
- Body Crumbs (SD) - V3
through orange trundle scars.
- The Tarantula (SD) - V0
up to large square slot, then straight up.
- Serens - V0
just left of small oak tree, small capstone on top.