TONKAWA FALLS - a bouldering
Problems will be refered to in two bands. A right band and a left band as viewed
from the bridge over the falls (the right band is under the pavilion). All
problems will be described left to right.
Climbing on the other side of the bridges is on private property and
you will be tresspassing. Also some of the walls mentioned are seasonal
due to the creek filling up in the winter.
Grades could be inaccurate
"SD" for sit down start
"LS" for low start
"SU" for stand up start
"BL" for bad landing
-- Short wall that is technically still part of the cave, but we considered it to be a separate wall. This wall has skinny tree, which looks like itís attached to the rock and can be used to down climb off this wall. This is the FIRST WALL ON THE RIGHT BAND.
- E & I Problem (SD) - V0
Start on other side of skinny tree matched in big pocket and climb up the slab. This one is usually dirty because of the rain and may require a good cleaning.
- Superstition (SD) - V1
Start right next to skinny tree on good pocket and ledge then go straight up the slab.
- Raggae Woman (SD) - V2
Start on flat ledge and go left hand gaston and make an akward short lunge for the sloper jug and finish on the short slab. Matt Dendy
- Living for the City (SD) - V2
Start on crimper rail and go right hand to obvious small crimper ledge, then climb up and right through slopers to finishing jug. Steve Leitch
- Wet Snatch (SD) - V7
Start in large but sharp right hand pocket and go up to a very obvious and nasty sloped pocket and two more difficult moves will get you to the jugs. Chris Haggerty
The Craw Cave
-- This is the obvious large cave with stone bench underneath it.
- Sucker Punch (SD) - V4+
Same start as previous problem but go left hand to slotted crimper and right hand to sloping crimper and then throw for the lip. BL. Matt Dendy
- La Salida (SU) - V2
Start standing on angled boulder left of stone bench and grab flat ledge on the headwall of the cave. Then go up right to sloping lip and follow the lip as it curves right and top out on obvious jugs. BL. Matt Dendy
- Craw Magnen (V4) - SU
Same start as Cro Magnen but finish on third large Hueco instead of going for the big last move. This one is an eliminate but still a fun challenge without the bad landing!! Matt Dendy
- Cro Magnen Direct (SD) - ??
Possible lower start on undercling rail to first hueco in previous problem. One Big Move!! BL
- Cro Magnen (SU) - ??
Start on first big hueco in the back of cave and traverse out right and up through huecos and the last move is a horizontal dyno off a small right hand crimp to a monster jug over an old stone BBQ pit. This problem will be one of the best and one of the hardest lines when it goes down. BL
- Breakeation (SU) - V6
Start on first round Hueco you see in the roof and make a big move to gain a jug then climb slightly left to top out. Matt Dendy.
-- This wall starts right after slab and ends at the water groove right before cave. This wall has the highest concentration of problems at all levels. The names of problems below are most of the direct lines but eliminates can be done all over this wall. Please excuse the vague descriptions and realize that were working on photos to go with these descriptions not only on this wall but all of the walls in the park.
- Kung Fool (SU) - V3
Start right hand on Channel Cat sloper left on crimper and go straight up. Last problem before the cave starts
- channel cat (SD) - V10
ass on the ground
- Channel Cat (LS) - V7
Start right hand on bad sloped sidepull and left on shallow two finger pocket. Two hard moves and you finish the previous problem. Chris LaCrasto (Sit Down would be worthy)
- Channel Cat Stand (SU) - V3+
Start right hand on two finger sloped pocket and left hand on sloper right next to it and climber the water groove right before the cave starts. Very Fun Problem!! Matt Dendy
- Channel Cat Indirect (LS) - V0
Start on Boogie Chillun and go left into obvious water groove to finish on the Channel Cat jug.
- Boogie Chillun (LS) - V1
Starts matched on crimps on a flake which looks like its going to fall off. Go straight up through jugs to a short roof, which makes the top out pretty scary. BL
- Partnership for an Idiot Free America (LS) - V1
Start in front of tree on streaked sidepull with bad feet and go straight up through jugs. BL
- Idiot Free America (SD) - V2
Start right hand on bad sidepull and left on small sloper dish with poor feet and go straight up
- Night Train (SD) - V2
Start with left hand on a perfect sloper and right hand on a slotted crimper and go left hand to two finger with sharp point and then up through slopers. Steve Leitch
- Teenage Wasteland (SD) - V1
Start matched on sloping crimp with poor feet and go up left to sharp two finger and then up through jugs. Steve Leitch
- Guy Smiley (SD) - V0
Start on low flat slopey hold and go to deep pocket and go straight up through slopers
- The Warm Up (SD) - V0
Same start but traverse left as far as you want to. Top out anywhere.
- Meet me at the StaDust (SD) - V0
Same start as before but go direct on jugs.
- The Board Walk (SD) - V1
Start on low undercling left of previous problem and traverse right using crack. Follow this out diving board and finish on Slab Shot.
- Miriams (LS) - V1
Start on sloped ledge right beneath diving board and climb straight up the stairs
- Slab Shot (SU) - V1
Start on good holds just right of the obvious diving board and climb straight up to top out on slab. BL.
- Karens Problem (SU) - V0
Start in same juggy section in previous problem in front of tree and go up on good holds
- Green Machine (SD) - V0
Same start as before but do the easy traverse left into obvious juggy section in front of tree to a high top out on good holds.
- Green Planet (SD) - V1
This problem starts in the middle of the main wall on the obvious matching ledge in the section with green moss either dyno to green sidepull or do it static grab 40 dollar jug to an easy topout. Height dependent problem but never the less great fun!!! Matt Dendy
- Fungus Among US (SD) - V3
Start on slanted right hand crimper and use the ledge of previous problem for a heel and go up left of hanging vine (try not to touch, itís poison ivy)
- Full of Moxy (SD) - V3/4
Start to right of hanging vine on good ledge and throw to sloped crimps match and then go to small horn at the top. Steve Leitch
- V seventeen Variation (LS) - V3
same start double handed dyno to the top which is a big sloper.
- V seventeen (LS) - V0
Start on big jug that looks like a mouth about chest high and two easy moves to the top. Fun Easy Problem! Blaine Todd
- Moon Child (LS) - V1
Start on right hand crimp and climb up through crater looking pockets.
- Project X (SD) - ??
Start low on small L shaped crimp and go up through sharp crater holds.
- The Devil Came to Crawford (SD) - V0
Start on right hand side pull and left hand pocket and go straight up through jugs
- Crawford is for lovers (SD) - V0
Start on sloped looking mouth and go straight up on good holds
- Crazy Eyes (SD) - V0
Start on matching holds that look sloping eyes just to the left of dueling trees growing out of the rock and climb straight up.
Le Friction Slab
-- Short slab in between Warm Up Wall and Main Wall. Try no hands to the top for fun!! Use the left side as a down climb for the main wall instead of walking back to the stairs everytime you top out. (there are no problems listed for this wall)
- no problems listed on this wall -
Warm Up Wall
-- to the left of the White T Wall. Down short stairway from pavilion (short wall littered with pockets). There can be many eliminates done on this wall, but we just named most of the obvious straight lines.
- Steves Way (SD) - V1
Start on low jugs and traverse back left through pockets and finish on slopers before wall bends back right. (last problem on this wall). Steve Leitch
- Little Brave (SD) - V1
Start on sloped crimpy pocket under bulge and climb straight up.
- Mono Project (SD) - ??
Same start as Cosmonaut but go left through monos and pull over the bulge to sloped top out straight up.
- Cosmonaut (SD) - V2+
Starts right below jug where wall bends left on small two finger pocket and sloping pinch and pull hard to grab the jug then easy top out on jugs straight above.
- Pow Wow Variation (SD) - V0
Starts at same spot just climb out left on jugs.
- Pow pow (SD) - V1
Begin where the wall starts to curve left on low pockets and go straight up
- Free Born Man (SD) - V0
Start just left of two youtes in two finger slot and two finger pocket and easy moves to the top.
- The Two Youtes (SD) - V0
Start in between two small trees (careful not to crush them) and on ledge and go straight up
- Dead Beat (SD) - V0
Start in low flat slots just to the left of stairway and do two easy moves to the top.
- Tonkawa Travers (SU) - V0
Start right off of the stairs and traverse low through pockets to the obvious jug right before where the wall starts to turn left.
White T Wall
-- tall wall with right below pavilion in between Ship Rocks.
- Tres Colores Azul (SU) - V0
Even yet still left of Blanco top out left most corner of pavilion
- Tres Colores Blanco (SU) - V0
Just left of Rojo top out right between columns of pavilion
- Tres Colores Rojo (SU) - V0
start just left of choss up through good pockets top out right most corner of pavilion (pavilion bricks are off)
Ship Yard Rocks
-- two large boulders below pavilion only climbable when water level is down.
- Arete Problem - ??
Start low and climb obvious sharp arete (looks like ships prow) Bad Landing
- Ledge Traverse - ??
Start low in between two boulders and climb up and out on sloped ledge.
-- wall that the limestone stairway leads down to. If your in the meadow looking at the stairs this wall is to the left (Also possible climbs on roof to the left of the water streak).
- Bull Frog (Jump) - V3
Left-most edge of grass jump to big pocket up through wierd mantle
- Project 1 (SU) - ??
Starts on crimp rail and attempt to go straight up.
- Project 2 (SU) - ??
Starts on good left hand pocket and throws to sloper and then hard moves to high topout.
- Project 3 (SD) - ??
Starts on tufa and pulls roof to a hard moves and another high topout.
- Virginia Creeper (LS) - V7
Start low in small pockets (or stand 7ft. on crimps -- V3) on obvious water streak dihedral and go straight up.
- Beech Nut (SU) - V1
Start on slab and climb thin holds to the ledge
-- smaller twin cave and wall just right of stairs.
- Filopian tube (SU) - V2+
this problem starts on the right side of the giant thread through. move through the tube inside the thread through, pull out of the tube and then exit straight up. very contrived. Andy Klier
- Simmer Down (SD) - V3+
This is the last problem in the cave on left side. Start squatted down and climb on good holds to slanted jug and then to hard sloped topout.
- Bacon (LS) - V5
same finish as simmer down only start to the right on tufa crimps staying right of jug/ledge foot.
- Not if Youre pregnant (LS) - V4
Start in big hueco towards left side of cave and pull out direct through slopers to grovelly mantle. Cody Gildart
- No name (SU) - V?
Same start as previous problem but go right through crimp and mono wrap to a jug. Matt Twyman
- The Nautilus Project (SD) - ??
Start in the back of cave on Nautilus shell hold and climb through terrible crimps with poor feet trying to reach a small pocket out on lip.
-- short wall between two caves
- Afterburn (LS) - V0
Start in left side of cave on hidden left hand sidepull and climb right into huge jugs to slot then go to candlewax looking hold which is a jug to an easy top out.
- Secret Nemesis (SU) - V3
Starts in the center of the wall on pockets and climbs up to slightly angled jug and then over bulge to slopey lip and try and find crimping rail on ledge to top out on. Matt Dendy
- Arch Rival (SU) - V2
Start on big pocket underneath bulge and climb up to horizontal jug then throw over bulge to flat ledge with a fun top out. Matt Dendy
- Wind and Spirit (SU) - V3
Start in front of huge tree just outside the cave and climb up through pockets and crimpy ledges. BL
-- Huge cave right after slab with most problems off the deck.
- Flesh Wound (SU) - V7
Start in left side of Cave on a huge tufa and climb up horizontally through two good huecos reaching a very sloped hueco over a flat circular rock then pull the bulge. BL. Matt Dendy
- Bloc Problem (SU) - ??
Start in the center of the cave on tufas and climb up though huge Huecos and end in the Hueco in the center of the roof. This one could be topped out but it will take some creativity and some big Huevos! BL
- Hueco Problem (SU) - ??
Start in cave right before it curves right on tufa and pull into first hueco and traverse back right into another Hueco closer to the slab. Try and reach high ledge on the arete part of the slab and continue up this. BL
- Corner Problem (SU) - ??
Start on tufa and try and get to sloping lip halfway up on the ďSheildĒ and pull over onto slab. BL
The Shield A.K.A. Ant Slab
-- This slab begins when facing the falls, just to the left of the falls. You will find obvious limestone stairway leading down to this area with two caves and the slab on the left across the meadow.
- Mary Bonita (SU) - V4
Ride the arete where the slab and cave meet. top out up through pocket on face. BL
- The Shield (SU) - V1
Very fun and tricky slab problem which starts on the left side of slab and goes straight up on small holds to the ledge and then fun mantel for a finish. Bit of a high ball with a good landing. Steve Leitch
- Im lichen this (SU) - V0
Starts on the slab with the giant step carved into it. Step up onto that and go straight up.
(This side is much different from the right in that the holds are a lot
sharper and there are lots of problems that start and use the tufas which
are plentiful on this side of the creek. Weíre still working on this side
which is longer than the right band and has a lot of potential for more
problems. But some of the walls here are seasonal so if you put up a line
on any of the walls and think itís a first ascent please let Matt or Steve
know and weíll put in the guide. Thanks.)
-- First roof you come to on the left when you come down the stairs. This roof looks short and easy but the top outs are all hard.
- Tufa Decay (SD) - V1
Start on rotten gray tufa and climb up through pockets to hard mantel at the lip.
- Span-Dango! (AKAVaricose Veins) (SD) - V4
Start on obvious tufas and climb straight out to hard finish. BL
- Dan Spango (LS) - V6
waiting for problem information
- Lakota (SD) - V8
Starts in middle of cave and uses small tufa and weird undercling with a hard topout to the right of previous problem.
- Hypercosmic Vagina (SD) - V3+
sit on tufas climb out right through tufas and pockets exit right over boulder
-- Next obvious bigger cave with a low line of pockets and a line of pockets going across the middle. Right behind this cave is a pile of rocks, perhaps a burial place were not for sure though. To the left of this cave is a smaller cave with a spring and a lot of moss growing in it.
- Leprochan Grotto (SD) - V4
start in left most grotto on two finger in roof. exit straight out.
- Drunk and Happy (SD) - V0
This short problem starts on the obvious jug right outside the small mossy cave and climb out the break between the two caves.
- Inebriant Traverse (SD) - ??
Start on same jug as previous problem and traverse right through pockets that go across the middle of the cave and top out where the cave ends.
- Mean Drunk (SD) - V4
Startin the middle of the grotto low in deep two finger. long move to jugs the direct exit through notch.
- Drunken Master (SD) - V3
This problem starts in the center of the cave using the low pockets start in a three finger jug pocket and right hand crimper and throw to huge obvious jug then straight up to top out on slight break in the wall. Matt Dendy
- The Power of Beef Smokies (SD) - V5
start on obvious red varnished hueco. traverse left across long line of pockets top out in the dihedral (the break between the two caves)
- needs a name (SD) - V3
start on obvious red varnished hueco. exit drunken master
- This is not a boulder problem (SD) - V2
Start matched on obvious red varnished hueco then climb straight up through pockets to hard finish. There is a secret to making the top out easier on this one. Thad Haus
- No name (SD) - V3
Start to the right of previous problem and goes right through slopes and has a hard topout.
-- This wall is short in length but has a couple of fun problems and some easier lines that arenít listed.
- Bens Problem (SD) - V0
Start on low pocket and go left hand into sidepull jug then straight up jugs. Ben Leitch
- Showdown or Throwdown (SD) - V4+
This problem starts right before the next cave on a small right hand crimp and left hand on a awkward sidepull crimp then either dyno to jug or try and use intermediate holds to gain jug then top out on jugs. Matt Dendy
-- Pretty much a featureless cave with possibilities for a couple of problems. Nothing yet though.
- nothing yet -
Captn Crunch Wall
-- This wall starts right outside of Shogun Roof and ends where the next and largest cave on this side begins. This wall has lots of tufas and very sharp holds. There are a lot of potentially hard problems that can be done on this wall.
- Captn Crunch traverse (SD) - V?
Starts on left side of wall and traverses entire wall finishing before tree.
- No name (SD) - V1
Start on light colored tufa and climb up into obvious large jug with sharp beads covering it, then try to topout.
- Head Strong (SD) - V3
Starts on crimpers right in front of the boulder thatís in front of the large tree. Climb up through a crimp then a mono to gain the jug. Then throw to sloper at the top of the wall to finish on. BL
- No name (SD) - V1
Start on crimpers just to the left of previous problem and use the tufa and small holds to get to the top.
- Novicane (SD) - V3
Starts in the center of this wall on a tufa pinch and left hand crimper. Use poor feet and try and get to jug then throw for the top.
- needs a name 4 (SD) - ??
Hard possible problem in between Novacane and Punishment.
- Punishment (SD) - V3+
Start on good hidden undercling and go left hand to sharp sidepull then up to a jug and throw for the top.
- Blood of a Virgin (SD) - V7
Same start as previous problem but goes straight up instead of going left through bad pockets and a throw at the top. Cody Gildhart
-- Very large cave that right now has a bee problem, which were working to get rid of. So please be careful right now when climbing here. if we get rid of the beeís there will be some great problems going out the roof. This roof and the short wall next to it will be the end of the left band in the winter due to flooding. Mostly projects and potential lines in this cave so far.
- Bushwhacked (SD) - V?
Starts on tufas low and goes through crimps and pockets to a hard topout
- No name (SU) - V3?
Starts on tufas right of previous problem as wall starts to bend right and goes staright up through jugs.
- Bee Cave Problem (SD) - V4+
This problem starts in the middle of the cave on a skinny tufa and large tufa on itís left climb straight up to gain jugs and avoid bees and top out roof. BL
- Buddha Belly Project (SD) - ??
Start underneath obvious Buddha belly and climb out and up on tufaís and small holds. Very Hard!!
- Get on the Snake (SD) - V4+
Start just to the left of tree thatís up against wall on a hidden mono slot and climb into tufa that looks like alien head and then climb up jugs to slopey hard topout. BL
- Tufa Project (SD) - ??
Starts on tufa and goes straight up and exits left of bee cave.
-- Wall that starts right after tree and ends at fallen tree or where the water starts.
- Way Out Willie (SD) - V4
Starts on crimper rail and climb into huge hueco that looks like a mouth and climb out right side of mouth to gain jugs and a very challenging top out. There is a variation that follows the left side of mouth and is about the same grade. Steve Leitch
- Le Ceil (SD) - V9
Starts either on the crimper rail or use tufa as undercling left hand and go up using tufa, crimps, and slopey pockets to gain the jug. Then a hard mantel for the finish. This problem has it all. Ralph Bynard
- Project (LS) - ??
Starts on small crimps and goes straight up through crimps and small pockets.
-- This roof is the long roof with tufas running up and down it. We started one problem here but this wall is currently underwater. Maybe by the summer it will have dried out. There is potential for many hard lines on this roof when itís dry of course.
- Snake Charmer (SU) - V4
Starts in the area that looks bleached and exits left through short roof. Has a snakeskin hanging from the vines above. BL
The Funk Wall
-- Again this wall is underwater also but has some great lines on it that we were working on. Starts after the Motown roof ends and there is a free standing boulder which marks the beginning of this wall and the first problem on this wall. This wall has plenty of potential as well when dried up. These are just a few of the problems on this wall that we tried. Between this wall and the Merle Haggard wall are several walls that arenít listed so please put up problems here when it dries up.
- Jump n Jive (SU) - ??
This problem starts by standing on the boulder below the wall and jump start to the crimper ledge then make a couple of desperate moves up the thin seam to try and finish. BL
- Solid Gold Dancer (SU) - ??
Starts just to the right of boulder use the obvious large pocket and try to climb the slab on thin holds.
- Hot Lava (SU) - ??
Start in vertical pocket below the plant and climb out left on slab using thin holds.
- Air Jordan Project (Jump) - ??
Running start to obvious slopey ledge right of previous problem match and try and mantel to get thin holds on slab.
- Jasons Project (SU) - ??
There are a few possible lines in between previous line and this problem but this problem marks the end of this wall. This problems starts right before wall turns in left on a crimpy sidepull. Use small holds to climb the slab.
Merle Haggard Wall
-- This wall is the obvious tall and multicolored wall under the bridge. All the problems on this wall are off the deck but have good landings. We think this wall is one of the best in the park just because itís beautiful to look at and even better to climb on but has mostly projects right now. Keep in mind that climbing on the rock past the bridge is own PRIVATE PROPERTY and we donít have permission to be there. So please donít climb over there because if you do it could jeopardize climbing within the park as well. Thanks.
- Easy Access (SU) - V0
First obvious jug haul up the left side of wall. Also can be used as a down climb for the other problems.
- Blains Project (SU) - ??
Start on sloping crimp on the short slab and try and climb up to finish on previous problem.
- White Line Fever (SU) - V4
Starts with left hand in sharp two finger pocket with poor feet use two crimps and a slopey pocket to gain the jug and then finish on jugs. Very fun problem and one of the best lines in the park.
- Silver Wings (SU) - ??
Start on thin undercling to get to obvious hour glass flake hold then try and go up from there. Hard moves.
- I think ill just stay here and drink (SU) - V4
Start on pocket with the hidden undercling mono wrap, then make dynamic move to pocket and sloper then to a hard top out left avoiding the cactus at the top. Last problem in the park. Steve Leitch